Days 9 & 10: Paradise: Ko Phi Phi

Two days in a place that’s changed, but still manages to take your breath away.

Ko Phi Phi. Just saying the name makes me feel 32 again.

It’s been well over 20 years since I first stepped foot on this dreamy island with no cars, no roads, and back then—no fast food chains. Today, you’ll find a McDonald’s and a Burger King nestled into the tight walking paths of this tiny paradise. Seems the world has found Phi Phi.

Back in the early 2000s, this place was still somewhat under the radar. Then came Leonardo DiCaprio in “The Beach”, and suddenly everyone wanted to see this emerald gem tucked between towering limestone cliffs and turquoise waters. Now, even the “uninhabited” islands—like Maya Bay and Monkey Island—are swarming with visitors, snapping selfies by the boatload.

Don’t get me wrong: it’s still stunning. The cliffs, the jungle, the endless sea. It’s just… different now. Today, we cruised into a bay and were greeted not just by the beauty—but by some floating bits of litter. A painful reminder of the impact we have when too many of us rush in without care.

And then there was the guy—more like idiot —who threw his half-finished beer at a monkey on the beach. The monkey caught it and chugged it like a pro. (No picture- I have more class than that). What is wrong with people?

Still, Phi Phi manages to work its magic.

The food has been another high point—delicious Thai dishes at sandy beach restaurants under the stars. Meanwhile, most of the kids are sticking to burgers and pizza. Honestly, mine would too. And I find myself wondering: if I had been given this kind of trip as a teenager, would I have gone for the pad Thai… or the pepperoni?

Yesterday, we hiked up to the island’s highest viewpoint. Sunset from up there was the kind of breathtaking that photos never do justice. Just layer after layer of color washing over the cliffs and ocean below.

Today was an 8-hour speed boat adventure—snorkeling, island hopping, burning (the kids, not me—this old lady knows her SPF after countless burns in my younger years), and making memories. We’re ending the day waiting for the luminescent plankton to work their magic in the dark water. It feels like the grand finale to our Phi Phi stay.

Each night, I’ve sat on the sand and watched fire dancers twirl flames into the sky, music thumping behind us, stars overhead. It’s touristy, yes. But it’s also kind of enchanting.

Despite the crowds, fast food chains, and the occasional beer-chugging monkey, Phi Phi still gets me. It may not be the same as it was—but maybe that’s the point.

Nothing stays untouched forever. But if you squint past the noise, you’ll still see the wild, raw beauty that drew me in two decades ago. And you’ll understand why, no matter how it changes, this place will always hold a piece of my heart. ♥️